just wondering if anyone had one fitted in their ISOBARIK AKTIV

i know it can be done (i have the instructions)

but was wondering if anyone had experience of it and what difference

it makes. (it should be huge).

Also who's using BINGO in their AKTIV? whats the consensus?

and another thing..

i am thinking of fitting some 12K resistors to the adjustment network

in order to give me an 1/8th dB adjustment for when i cant make my mind up between 1/4 dB Positions.


and a nuther nuther thing

any other aktiv users in the york area?

My most recent Aktiv has a Dirak PSU and a Bingo card. The gain switches have also been removed. It replaced a bog standard PSU, non Bingo unit.

A decided improvement, especially in the bass, which now goes down very, very low

I was told by Linn that it couldn't be done due to differently sized components (and hence the new PSU not being able to fit inside the box).

When you say you know it can be done and have the instructions, I'm interested to know where this came from - and would love a copy of the instructions (and do you know a source of Brilliant PSUs!!!!).

I'm currently running a standard Aktiv XO - no Bingo - some people like the Bingo, some feel it goes down too low in their rooms (and causes resonance problems that are tricky to fix).

Nice to see a thread about this :)

Chris

I think a 'Slimline Brilliant' would fit no problems. This is the inside of a Kairn retro fitted with one, it's bolted to the side of the case and sits over the circuit board.
http://www.kilmory.demon.co.uk/pics/Kairn1.jpg

The earlier Brilliant is the size and shape of the toroidal transformer, FWIW, and so may not fit an Aktiv.

Paul

Mine was upgraded in 1998 (before I owned it) with a Slimline. I have the original Linn goods in report that states "All Upgrades, power supply etc." to be carried out, and the invoice that states "Slimline upgrade", so it will fit.

I also have the Bingo board (I think!) and never find the bass goes too low ;)

I'll pop the lid off and take a photo tomorrow.

Mick

wonderful news that we have a live one!

looking forward to those photos

particularly to see how the cable is dressed into the connector

and what colour wires go where!

i am hoping linn will sell me a slimline brilliant for me to fit.


the instructions come from linn but are draft documents.

i can scan into jpegs some time next week if anyones interested.

Bingo in situ

http://www.kilmory.demon.co.uk/pics/bingo.jpg

FYI...

Paul

I'm certainly interested in seeing the documents from Linn and hearing whether Linn will sell you one to fit - since I'd be wanting to do the same myself!

mail at chrisporton dot com is my e-mail.

Many thanks for this.

Chris

wonderful news that we have a live one! More live than even I thought - definately a Bingo board and what's more, a Brilliant PSU (http://www.mickandviv.com/hifi/picIAXOBrilliantPSU.jpg) :cool:

the instructions come from linn but are draft documents.

i can scan into jpegs some time next week if anyones interested. Yes please.

Mick

Could you not put the Brilliant in an external case and link to the Aktiv via flying lead?

One could use a Hammond case, or even, dare I say it, a Dirak box!

& I'd like to put in another request for the jpegs of the instructions


And on the subject of cases, does anyone know a source of "Linn like" cases the size of a Dirak/Lingo case (i.e. half an LK box). I'd like to build a headphone amp into one

Could you not put the Brilliant in an external case and link to the Aktiv via flying lead?That would certainly help to dissipate the heat it generates. Having such a large supply shoehorned into the case explains why it runs very hot.

Mick

Now I have the links working, some more photos here (http://www.mickandviv.com/cgi-bin/thumbnails.cgi?hifi.txt:hifi)

Mick

the instructions come from linn but are draft documents.

i can scan into jpegs some time next week if anyones interested.

David

I'd much appreciate a copy when you get the time.

I'm at steve at sprocter dot wanadoo dot co dot uk

I'd also be keen to know the response from your dealer on buying a slimline to fit yourself.

Thanks

just sent out the docs

the issue seems to be the adaptor cable from brilliant to aktiv

also is the filter network on the back of the mains input connector

courtesy of ivor?

David,

Could I get the docs too?

mail at chrisporton dot com

Many thanks for this.

Cheers,

Chris

Thanks Dave

Discard customers this, discard customers that - it looks like all you get back is the boards, not even your own box.

But --- is the Brilliant a standard upgrade or have I got a rarity?

Mick

----- The following addresses had permanent fatal errors -----
<mail@chrisporton.com>

sorry chris your email dont work

yup what you have is a rarity

for whatever reason linn started with this upgrade and then discarded it.

apparently there are different specs of slimline brilliant. there is one specifically for the unidisk (higher power rating maybe?)

what i am interesting in gleaning from you is the exact construction of the interface cable from brilliant to aktiv pcb.

i believe there are two sets of outputs of which only one is required by the aktiv.

does the other set of outputs require a resistor load to keep the switch mode happy?

if you could take a piccy of this cable and see if there is anything more than
just an open circuit on the discarded supplies?

When my Kairn got repaired they changed the case to one that already had the Brilliant bolted to it. And, FWIW, my Aktiv has no vents...

Quite keen to see the docs, paul at kilmory dot demon dot co dot uk, thanks.

Paul

Dave

Here is the inside with the PSU moved out of the way (http://www.mickandviv.com/hifi/picIAXOBrilliantWiring.jpg).

Soldered onto the IEC connector, there are a couple of small caps linking live to earth and neutral to earth but I can't see the values. At the serial number end of the PSU, the left two (brown/blue) wires are mains in via the fuse. The right two (blue/blue) are connected to the voltage change switch.

At the other end, there are 8 coloured wires into a connector and 3 mains wires from that to the circuit board. I don't want to remove the boot to see how they connect as that is all that provides insulation from the casework.

The PSU sits touching the top of the two large caps even when bolted into place.

Paul

Does yours have the slimline? It may not run as hot so perhaps no vents would be needed.

Mick

My Isobarik Aktiv has the original internal transformer, IIRC it ran quite warm.

Paul

Dave

Thanks for the info re the instructions. Pity Ivor didn't supply the photos as well! Usual comprehensive stuff although there seems to be more concerned with getting rid of the existing ironmongery than with installing the brilliant supply itself! Step 14 seems to be the critical one. Looks like it needs a different lead.

Have you asked your dealer yet for the diy supply?

ps How do you know there are different specs for the brilliant? Do you know whether they are unique to every model, in particular the Kairn?

Thanks

David,

That's strange - I've been getting e-mails from people all day?

How about chris_porton at hotmail.com instead?

Thanks for this.

Chris

having looked closely at the photos kindly provided by mick it seems

the cable required to connect the brilliant to the aktiv does indeed contain

a little circuit board containing 'who knows what'?

without this information we are on a hiding to nothing.

i await anyone with further information regarding this.

until then i think we are a bit stuck.

i will keep you posted with any further information i receive.

David,

Thanks - I got the document now.

Please keep us posted on what you find out about doing this from Linn - it's an upgrade I'd really like to make if I could ..... given that all my other Linn kit has Slimline Brilliant power supplies!

Chris

just to keep you guys informed

I have just repaired an original (round) brilliant PSU that I had knocking around.

Output connector :

1: blue (0v)
2: green (20V)
3: N.C.
4: orange (-50v)
5: red (0v)
6: brown (+50v)

These voltages were measured with no load and will obviously drop under load
the interface connector between the brilliant and the aktiv will presumably
contain a load resistor for the 0-20v supply on pins 1 and 2.

The +-50V supply seems a bit high to shove straight up a pair of regulators
that are going to drop it to +-15v.

I will measure the outputs under load of my slimline brilliant, and try loading up the old style brilliant and keep you guys posted.

So, what's a round Brilliant look like inside?

Paul

FWIW my Numerik has a round Brilliant type 'U25W' which in use produces 10v and +-24.6.

Paul

thanks paul that sounds more like it.

Looks like these brilliants need a load to operate properly.

i am thinking of replacing the transformer in my dirak with the brilliant

and hoping linn were stingy enough to use the same transformer in the dirak

as in the kairn.

This would mean that no mods to the aktiv would have to be done.

Looks like these brilliants need a load to operate properly.

Nearly all SMPS need a minimum load to work properly - they can do very strange (and nasty) things operated open circuit.

Mr Tibbs

managed to get hold of an brilliant to aktiv connection cable!

will post details of the innards shortly.

hope to rig up a smps to aktiv this weekend!

just finally got my isobarik Aktiv powered up with a brilliant psu.

and WOW it is certainly a big improvement.

my isobariks no longer hiss lightly in the background when music is not playing.

instruments i have never heard before are audible and the whole thing sounds much more like a live musical event.

this is no mean feat since this was already the best system I have heard bar none.

The only drawback is that I can hear that the system now needs resetting and thats a three hour job.


anyone interested in knowing how can email me on david underscore ellwood at yahoo dot co dot uk.

... and I'm sure you are now finding that the XO runs a lot hotter :o

Have sent you an email for a copy of the innards. I'll add them to the faq.

Mick

The only drawback is that I can hear that the system now needs resetting and thats a three hour job.

Could you expand upon that please. :confused: What do you mean by "resetting"?

by resetting i mean setting up again.

repositioning the speakers

and re calibrating the aktiv switch settings (mine is accurate to 16th of a dB)

its quite fun and obviously involves about three bottles of nice red.

years ago when a dealer I went to linn for brainwashing and indoctrination (Linn Aktiv Training).

it is amazing how much more you can get out of this system when set properly.

How many aktiv users out there are using stock settings and the speakers up against the back wall?

Finally got the aktiv working satisfactorily.

The trick was in earthing the power amps back to the aktiv (280/sparks) suddenly the whole thing started to work.

anyone else out there running a brilliant'd isobarik aktiv?

I upgraded from Dirak-Aktiv to Slimline Aktiv a year and a half ago, just before the LK series was obsoleted. I probably had the last formal Aktiv Isobarik crossover Slimline upgrade. I was surprised to find that such an upgrade was possible--the info was burried in some Slimline upgrade document that Linn created years ago. The crossover came back in a "LK Majik" style box with the vents on the top and bottom as shown in the pics in this thread. I do have a Slimline in my box though, not the Brilliant--see the Kairn pictures in this thread with the long black box. That's what's in my Aktiv.

Getting the upgrade done by Linn was a real pain--it took them 7 months to get the box working, over which time I was running passive. I must say though it sure makes you appreciate going back to Aktiv again once you've been in passive mode for a while.

The improvement is a good one. The sound is clearer and sweeter in the treble. So, more information and better pitch accuracy. I'd say it is a worth while upgrade. I might have heard a bigger difference if I'd done the Klimax Kontrol upgrade from Kairn, first. Now that's a different story (and a whole lot more account damage).

Chris.

What power amps are you using chris?

the 280 spark's I am using require earthing back to a source component and I had previously had them connected to the linto. since having the slimline in the aktiv they need to earth back to that.

had a session on saturday night tuning the venerable speakers and got a fantastic result, really really pleased.

Hi David,

I'm using Spark-280s too. I earth the power amps to the Aktiv by connecting the earth tag to one of the case skrews on the underside of the box. If you connect the earth to the Linto it messes up the sound (as it looks like you found too).

I have some Linn Silver interconnects that are a custom job and use the gold plated XLRs that Linn use on their balanced cables. I found this really helps with transparency and smoothness of the sound although it is a bit of an outlay in cash. And, unfortunately, you still need to do the periodic clean on the nickel male sockets on the back of the Aktiv and 280s.

I also have found that it is essential to make sure that you keep the fuses clean in the Sparks and to periodically clean the power supply socket connection on the back of the 280s--use isopropyl and a cotton swab. The mains plugs have to be cleaned periodically as well (duraglit then isopropyl/swab).

It's all a bit of a fuss but really necessary--all those who talk about sharpness and rough top end--well these few items mentioned above fix those problems (entirely).

I've never messed with the dip-switches. They're set to the factory setting. I'm intrigued by your comments. Can you give some insights on the adjustment proceedure you go through to get the sound voiced for the room?

I find that the Isobariks are really sensitive to room placement. If they're not right within a half an inch (maybe less) the sound is off and you won't want to listen. What did you learn at Linn about the Aktiv setup? I'd be really interested to hear your perspective.

Thanks,
Chris.