After seeing Martin selling his Tecnoweight (unused, but fondled? an oxymoron surely?), I wondered whether any mods to my RB300 would actually be of any real advantage given the combination I use - DV10X4 > RB300 stock > Systemdek 2X2 (bought about seven years ago as NOS - virtually the same as the Audio Note TT1 - same platter) > LFD Mistral phono.

I get the feeling from other posts / sources that the wiring mods wouldn't really be worth the bother without upgrading the dek, etc. What about a weight?

The Techno Weight definitely.

Then send off to Audio-Origami for an internal/external rewire.

Although, frankly, I'd sell the 300 buy 250 and mod that. Your DV willl love you.

Also, and this is a no brainer - buy a new belt for your TT. I did, it cost £6 and made a real difference. I intend to buy one every year from now on.

BTW, 'twas I wot had fondled the TechnoWeight - which is a beautifully made item and well worth the cost.

Thanks Mark. I had noticed that there are a number of stub / wieght modifications available, which is confusing. Do you really reckon it would be worth a rewire?

PS. I have a spare belt, maybe I should bung that on and get another spare.

On the subject of belts, should I contact Audio Note for one, or is there a whole internet's worth of dealers with Systemdek belts?

I put a tecnoweight on my RB300 (planar 3 with motor upgrade) and it tightened the rather ploddy Rega bass considerably.

Before buying a tecnoweight make sure you can remove the end stub from your RB300. Lots of grunting and swearing was required to remove the end stub from mine, and at one point I thought I might be selling a lightly fondled tecnoweight :)

Rather than mod an RB250/300 I got rid of mine (300) and bought a new Michell TecnoArm A. This is a highly modded 250 with more than just rewiring and the Tecnoweight. Even VTA adjustment is possible now.

It is brilliant.

Wear a pair kitchen washing up gloves when trying to remove the end stub by hand you'll get a better grip and much more 'purchase' on the stub making it easier to unscrew.

(Do you ever get the feeling that you've said something in all good faith but that somehow, despite your best efforts, it's full of double-entendre's is bound to result in a general lowering of the tone (not very flat-earth I know) and a whole slew of slightly salacious and witty following posts from fellow PFMers? I do. Right now!)

I beleieve the TechnoArm is brilliant but the cost of entry is higher.

So, other than replacing the counterweight (tecnoweight seems to be the preferred version), is there anything actually worth doing to this arm, on this deck, vfm-wise. Obviously I could buy an replacement arm, but as I am unlikely to be upgrading the deck anytime soon, I doubt if the expenditure to improve on the RB300 (with weight) could be justified.

Any offers on where to source belts?

Rod,

I use an Incognito-rewired RB250 on a Systemdek IIX. It was done a couple of years ago and made a noticeable improvement to the sound. I have been using the arm on a Rega P3 for a couple of months, but a few days ago decided to stick it back on the Systemdek. I've never been particularly careful about the setup of the IIX, but put a little time and care into it this time, making sure the plinth are platter are perfectly level, playing with the VTA, etc. The results are stunning. It's playing a completely different game to the Rega. I feel the Systemdek is an extremely capable deck, and an arm rewire helps it shine even brighter. I'm now also considering a Tecnoweight, just for added oomph. Belts are generally available on ebay, though I suspect you may be better off talking to Audio Note.

How does the Technoweight improve on a Rega tungsten weight? The ploddy bass isn't so much of an issue in my rig, but if I can improve the arm's end-of-side tracking and give it a bit more oomph for not too much, I could be interested...

How does the Technoweight improve on a Rega tungsten weight? The ploddy bass isn't so much of an issue in my rig, but if I can improve the arm's end-of-side tracking and give it a bit more oomph for not too much, I could be interested...

In my system (planar 3/ Densen B100 / GMA Europa/REL strata 3) the tecnoweight mainly improved the rather one-note bass of the rega setup, giving bass more definition, and more "notes". I hate overblown bass, and I like bass drums to have some kick, and that's exactly what the tecnoweight did. I previously had the tungsten weight on the RB300.

I haven't noticed an improvement in end of side distortion tracking. I think that's more a function of the cartridge and the LP, and the Planar 3 being a realtively cheap (but good) deck.

The best improvement I made for tracking, distortion and smoothness was to switch the bearing oil for 140 weight mobil SHC-634. That was like buying a better deck for $15.

Dom,

I have read reports from Tecnoweight users that it has improved tracking – something to do with the mass of the weight being in line with the cartridge? Personally, I found tracking was vastly improved on switching cartridges from a Goldring to a Denon DL110. End-of-side distortion banished in an instant.

Thanks John, for the Systemdek related info, and to all others. I will keep a look out for a weight in the meantime. I may also consider having it rewired, if I can time it right - when I will not be at home for a week or two. I don't think I could handle the deck being out of action for too long.

I took some time when fitting my wall-mounted Apollo table, to level the table, then the dek and the platter.

Mark, I think I will leave you to your fondling and rubber gloves, and just use a pair of soft-jawed connector pliers to remove the stub. :-)

Rewiring an RB250/300 is definitely well worth it. If you are sending it to Audio Origami for the rewire ask him about his weight/stubs - he does a low riding weight as well. Not quite as fancy as a Tecno, but in principle the same.

Rod,

You can do the Incognito yourself if you're half-way handy with wires. I was fine until it came to soldering of the cartridge tags, which I bodged badly. At that point I sent the arm off to British Audio Products (I'd bought the kit from them), who tidied up the mess I'd made in no more than a couple of days.

Rewiring an RB250/300 is definitely well worth it. If you are sending it to Audio Origami for the rewire ask him about his weight/stubs - he does a low riding weight as well. Not quite as fancy as a Tecno, but in principle the same.Thanks. I'll drop him a line.

Rod,

You can do the Incognito yourself if you're half-way handy with wires. I was fine until it came to soldering of the cartridge tags, which I bodged badly. At that point I sent the arm off to British Audio Products (I'd bought the kit from them), who tidied up the mess I'd made in no more than a couple of days.I can solder, and have a lovely WNA Headamp to prove it. However I also have an unfinished dac due to making an arse of it. :-) Think I'll leave tonearm wires to the experts.

While I'm here, I have set the arm up myself, but often wonder about trying one of the VTA adjusters, as adding washers one at a time is not the best way to do this. I would imagine a few of you use one of these.

I do have a VTA adjuster. The Origin Live one, I think. During my completely non-scientific experimentation I've found I prefer it slighty tail-down.

I have the OL stub and a low slung weight made by Audio Origami, made to order to a specific mass to account for the extra weight of the paddle assembly on my Rock. Johnnie's work is superb I'd definitely give him a call.

If you don't want to drive yourself insane and cut to the chase, buy a new P5 w/ RB700 arm and DV 10X5. By the time you finish investing in snake oil and bandaids, you could get a REAL upgrade. If your 10X4 is seven years old, start with a new 10X5.

your pal,

B

hi guys
so much great advice is often given here:) i love this forum

bang for buck the best thing you can do for a rega 200/250/300 is rewire the arm tube and external wires with some exotic cables...(and make sure the internal cables cause no friction to the arm movement on both planes ...maybe about 20 swings would be concidered perfection :)
and if you can thro into this a better internal earth and balanced external cable then you have a winner @ low cost

the thruth of the matter is rega is great on a square plinth---- without a easy arm hieght adjustment and a easy azamyth adjustment its all depending on how square your plinth or arm board is :(

the biggest movement in rega mods could be my new silicon damped arm tube
http://www.audioorigami.co.uk/ForSale/regadamper-and-paddle.jpg

its a 1st from me ...ripped of from the top pu7 model arm
ur welcome to watch the short film http://www.audioorigami.co.uk/PU7-ToneArm.htm

best wishes as ever and any questions please just ask
j7

If you don't want to drive yourself insane and cut to the chase, buy a new P5 w/ RB700 arm and DV 10X5. By the time you finish investing in snake oil and bandaids, you could get a REAL upgrade. If your 10X4 is seven years old, start with a new 10X5.

your pal,

BNah! If I was to find myself in the position of upgrading the deck, if ever, I would be aiming a bit higher than that. My dek was lightly used until about a year ago when I started buying vinyl again, prior to that, I spun records probably about four times a year (heresey!). The DV10X4 is much more recent.

Thanks for the sales pitch though. ;-)

Thanks for the e-mail Johnnie, I'll get back to you.

Has anybody tried the silicone damping?

I have read reports from Tecnoweight users that it has improved tracking – something to do with the mass of the weight being in line with the cartridge? Personally, I found tracking was vastly improved on switching cartridges from a Goldring to a Denon DL110. End-of-side distortion banished in an instant.

Aha - I have the DL110 also, and it's certainly a major improvement re end-of-side, but I wanna tweak the deck even more... Maybe this Technoweight is the way forward then. Interestingly, a Flutterbuster helped with end-of-side too.

I don't really have much of a problem with one note bass - guess the Rega Elas and Naim stuff is so overdamped you don't notice. Mind you, my room's a bass sucker - i.e., it sucks out bass really badly - and I've only had one pair of speakers in there that really get round the problem. THey were prototypes I was running in for someone too, so couldn't buy them :(

Thanks for the e-mail Johnnie, I'll get back to you.

Has anybody tried the silicone damping?

hi rod
ive just developed the silicon damper pack...only made 1 prototype
ive sent the arm in the picture to Jas at the vinyl engine to test...so hopefully he will like it:D

best wishes for now
j7

Nah! If I was to find myself in the position of upgrading the deck, if ever, I would be aiming a bit higher than that. My dek was lightly used until about a year ago when I started buying vinyl again, prior to that, I spun records probably about four times a year (heresey!). The DV10X4 is much more recent.

Thanks for the sales pitch though. ;-)

Not really a sales pitch, just honest advice. IMHO, there are no other record spinners worth buying for the value. I've tried many at the shop and home. I also think Rega mods are a bit silly. You can buy just the tonearms. A RB700 will kick the "shite" out of any Frankenmod on a 250 or 300. Biased? perhaps. I just hate tweaking. I'd rather listen to music.:D

hi rod
ive just developed the silicon damper pack...only made 1 prototype
ive sent the arm in the picture to Jas at the vinyl engine to test...so hopefully he will like it:D

best wishes for now
j7Hi j7, thanks for the info, I will keep my eyes peeled over there for the results. Good luck!

Only one problem Brian, a rewire and weight cost a lot less than £450 minus sale of RB300. Would the RB700 really be that much better? Anyway, I have a budget and £450 isn't in the ballpark. :-)

I thought the Michell Tecnoarm A was better than an RB1000, if that helps...

-- Ian

I had the opportunity a few months back to play with a P5 loaded with an Elys 2 but without the offboard PSU. Really nice table to look at and use, and nice sounding too. But I didn't think it represented much of a sonic improvement, if any, over my IIX/RB250/DL110 combo.

I have RB250 and RB300 (tungsten) and a Tecnoweight.

I have just fitted the tecno to the RB300 and things seem tidier and cleaner though perhaps a little les exuberant.

Has anyoine genuinely tried Tecno weighted RB250 vs RB300 and which one sounds best.

With the RB300 the spring is recommended set to 3.5 gram, effectively out of play then. I kind of see the merit in the spring for riding warps.

All things being equal and keeping in mind tht whichever arm will get the incognito loom, which is likely to give the truly better sonics after tecno weight is fitted, 250 or 300.

I sometimes wondered if the hype over the 250 being superior once weight modded was not just done by the OEM sellers, seems only Moth sells both 250 and 300 but most others just the 250.
Could it be because the plastic stubbed 250 yields greatest gain from the weight mods and simplifies stock holding wityh just one model?

as standard the rb300 is better...with its solid stub and rear end

but a fully modded rb250 and fully modded rb300 are very close...esp now the foam fill is available for the rb300 as well as the rb250:)

any questions please just ask
j7