View Full Version : A question concerning Garrard 401. (Spindle Bearing)

20-02-07, 02:48 AM
I am in the process of trying to revitalise a 401.

When I lifted the platter from chassis the bearing spindle came out with it, this was easily released from the platter with a tap, but I noticed a groove at the bottom of the spindle that may have held a retaining clip?

Having looked at the bearing housing I can see that the spindle might have been fed in from the bottom before the end bearing was fitted, can anyone tell me if this is true? And would this have and adverse effect on the 401?

Also the bottom bearing gasket is trashed, does anyone have an idea what to use as a replacement.


20-02-07, 02:58 AM
Hi Biodad.

Whereabouts are you? If you're in the UK, I'd suggest a phone call or trip to Loricraft, this might answer a whole lot of questions at once.

Not a terribly useful answer, i'm afraid, but I get the impression that it's very easy to do a lot of damage to a main bearing, if (like me) you're not too sure what you're doing.

Just a thought....



20-02-07, 03:13 AM
I presume you've seen this:


As far as I know Loricraft only deal with the 30 and 401.

20-02-07, 03:32 AM
As far as I know Loricraft only deal with the 30 and 401.

That's ok then, we're discussing a 401!:)

20-02-07, 05:04 AM
Doh!, I've got my threads muggled up, there was one here yesterday about a 100.
What a chump

John Caswell
21-02-07, 12:26 PM
Hi Biodad,
Yes there should be a circlip at the base of the main spindle to stop it coming out, and you are also quite correct that the spindle is fed in from the bottom.
Terry at Loricraft may be able to help, it is at least worth a phone call.

John Caswell

23-02-07, 01:29 PM
Thanks John
My 401 was like this when I got it, so I guess the previous owner was over zelous removing the platter and broke the circlip, Still at least I can pour oil straight down the spindle hole, (once I find out the best way to replace the gasket that is).

John Caswell
27-02-07, 12:06 AM
Hi Biodad,
I doubt it, he more than likely took it off but being a spring clip device it probably sprung off into oblivion.
As far as the gasket is concerned you can buy gasket paper at motor part distributors or possibly Halfords, and use the baseplate as atemplate or Hermetite and RS do a liquid gasket material in a tube.
Remember that all the screwthreads are imperial BA thread.
Use a good oils like Mobil 1R or Redline or any fully synthetic 0W40/5W40 type oils

John Caswell

01-03-07, 02:59 AM
I bought my Garrard 401 new in mid 2005. The bearing had never been charged with oil and I disassembled it as I was concerned that there may have been evidence of pitting or corrosion on the shaft.There was none.

If you are revitalising the bearing I'd recommend having a look at what makes it work. It's an old technology, but used some interesting principles.

The thrust or weight bearing part of the assembly is a spring loaded convex plate consisting of thin phosphor bronze, which is heated to a very high temperature then quenched in oil. The phosphor bronze actually takes up the oil in the quenching process.

IMHO the bearing oil should be inspected twice a year and probably changed, depending on what instinct is telling you about the condition of the oil. As stated by others , HIGH pressure , LOW speed, so the sheering qualities of the oil molecule is important.

The fibre seal at the base of the bearing will leak unless it is tightened up to a VERY tight fit. Somewhat at odds with the types of screw for the task, I'm afraid.

Check out my 401 at


As always , correction welcomed if I'm erroneous.

PS , I sell new control fascias for 401's now, so if you need one, check out Paul Dimaline for a reference. I think he's a happy puppy, and no, they are not cheap, because low volume production isn't.

If I could get an order for 10,000 I'd be able to move on price.