Does anyone have a sure fire unlikely to be destructive method of getting these out. I am planning on restoring my number two pair of briks. Initial prising has proved to be a little scary. I am sure that there probably is a domestic item that does the job easily but am yet to find it.

Thanks
CJ

Managed to remove one of the tweeters. Now one is out the others will be easier as I can see how they are fitted and also that apart from breaking the face plate I will struggle to damage them. The B110s look a whole lot mor difficult.

While I am here does anyone know something to remove the fluff that has stuck to the top B110s over the years without damaging what is underneath i.e. I am sure some mean solvent would do it but prob melt the surrounds too!!

Thanks

CJ

I've heard people using a conical thing from a tap and die set to pull with, but never tried that myself. Managed to pry my tweeters out with a palette knife and a slightly oversized bolt.

Ooooh - lucky. I was really taking out the tweeters to sort outpushed in domes - little did I know they were completely sealed at the back. However, I then start rooting around for something to 'suck out' the domes. Ironicially the main tube of a disassembled solder sucker did the job in 5 seconds, sucking on one end with the other in the tweeter (not a phrase I intend to use often!) and I now have perfect domes (not that!!). Just have one B110 to sort out now - think that will be immune to sucking though.

CJ

I wouldn't try to remove the mids. Why do you need to?

The chassis have goo stuck all over tham and they're all but glued into their housing. The speaker backs are carefully pre-tensioned to the gutter-pipe mid enclosure and this won't have gone off IMO.

Linn's way of taking the mids out is to destroy the cone/coils first by ripping them out and then yank out the chassis once the bolts are removed. Blowups were the only reason and the RS 50 strand cables used inside are perfectly good for internal wires - and pretty damned good externally too.

what you need is a bolt that perfectly fits the hole in the b110.

so in effect it uses the b110 chassis as a thread.

the end of the bolt will then bottom out on the wood behind the b110 hole and as you turn the bolt it will push out the b110.

best using four at once to carefully push out the driver.

David - thanks, sounds like a very good idea.

CJ