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  #16  
Old 21-03-17, 02:56 AM
dubblebubble dubblebubble is offline
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Next up, separating the seal...
A long, thin blunt tool is required.
I used an icing spatula that did the job remarkably well.



Aim for the top of the gasket, not the bottom of the mid box. It will slide between the silicone and gasket, if washing up liquid has been used (always use washing up liquid!). Work it horizontally back and forth, the seal will start to part. Move to another side and repeat. The box will lift away once the front and sides have been separated. Remove the old gasket and use a liberal amount of furniture polish to soften the adhesive and good old elbow grease to remove it. Once all traces of old adhesive are removed you can put the new gasket in place.

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  #17  
Old 21-03-17, 03:13 AM
dubblebubble dubblebubble is offline
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The mid box is where the most care must be taken.
Peel away the old silicone.



Check the pads, mine were pierced through and into the wood.



They all had to be removed. Use a pointed blade to gently work under the staples and use pliers to pull them out.



Fill the holes with woodfiller (I found some Ronseal General Purpose Woodfiller in the garage) the holes are tiny, just push it in and wipe off the excess.

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  #18  
Old 21-03-17, 03:50 AM
dubblebubble dubblebubble is offline
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The aluminium pads have double sided tape to hold then in place, but to be sure, I used 15mm nails (the cabinet is 20mm thick).



the mid box now needs to be carefully lined up above the bottom box and allow the pads to rest on the spikes. There will be a >2mm gap between the bottom of the mid box and the gasket. This is essential as the spikes support the mid box and the silicone is only "squashed" to make a seal between the gasket and mid box. I now understand that this has a profound effect on the quality and depth of the bass. I did read a quote, attributed to Julian Vereker, that setup of the pads and spikes is the most important part of the process. Once the pads are pierced the mid box will sit too low and the silicone/gasket becomes a support. I think this then absorbs some of the bass energy leading to "bass light" comments. A dimple to seat the spike is sufficient. If you look at the picture above of the old silicone I removed, the silicone is about 1mm thick and has flowed over the edges of the gasket. With the new pads in place the silicone is 2mm thick and sits neatly within the gasket.
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  #19  
Old 21-03-17, 04:23 AM
dubblebubble dubblebubble is offline
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Before you get your gun ready and put a steady 5-6mm bead of silicone around the gasket, make sure you put a THIN layer of washing up liquid on the gasket and around the bottom of the mid box. This will save much stress in the future...



Carefully lower the top box onto the spikes and dimples in the pads. Give the top of the box one firm tap and that's it. Now get down on your knees, with a torch, and admire the uniform seal you have made!





I knew that one day I would use my old LPs again...



Almost there...



And finally, grilles on...



That's it, make yourself a cuppa and get ready to do it all again!

My room is far from perfect (don't mention the radiator), but right now the SBLs are rocking...
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  #20  
Old 21-03-17, 05:23 AM
dubblebubble dubblebubble is offline
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Another bit of housekeeping I did before re-sealing:

The wool in the lower box will have settled over time. Get your hand in and underneath it to gently lift and separate, so that it sits about 75 mm below the top plate.

Something I noticed, but neglected to take a photo of , was the Hornslet label inside the lower box. It had serial number 00048 on it. These are a late (2001) pair and I was wondering if this serial number reflected the total number of cabinets made by Hornslet or those in Beech (I know of 4 including this pair)?
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  #21  
Old 21-03-17, 05:27 AM
peterm peterm is offline
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Nice post and a nice pair of sbls, well done.
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