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  #16  
Old 13-10-17, 08:36 PM
dave dave is offline
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FWIW, JV once said broken seals were rarely the problem with underperforming SBLs. It was more often caused by the bass driver cabinet rocking atop the lower floor bass cabinet due to a spike or spikes puncturing all the way through the aluminum pads and digging a hole deep into the wood (usually caused by moving the assembled speaker incorrectly or an initial setup fault as I experienced below) . ANY amount of bass driver cabinet wobble no matter how little is too much as the driver cabinet is now only supported by a flexing silicone seal.

If you don't get this part right the SBLs will sound like a giant pair of out of phase Kans with exaggerated and distorted one note bass. I can attest to this being a huge problem when I ignored his warning and mine simply weren't pushed down enough to penetrate the pads just enough so the bass driver cabinet sat firmly on all four spikes. (This must be done while the silicone is still wet.) The reason for the alum pads is to compensate for manufacturing tolerances with two wood cabinets tightly coupling only at four points per the design goal and provide a guide for repeatability in setup should a tear down and move be required in the future.

It's not hard to get this right, just attention to details per the included setup instructions and the only way you'll get the best sound out of SBLs.
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  #17  
Old 14-10-17, 12:12 AM
Mike Reed Mike Reed is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pine Marten View Post
..... I like a decent attempt at a three dimensional soundstage, it is this aspect of the SBLs performance that I've read can be lacking. Down to poor setup perhaps?
Not really. Back to the wall speakers do not give the 3D soundstage (imaging, really) that other speakers in free space are capable of. Horses for courses, and each design has its strong and weak areas. Briks, e.g., give a fabulous 'wall of sound' presentation, with tremendous authority (if powered adequately) but little else (i.m.o.); ditto Saras et al.

I think you'll find, having slowly improved your amplification by degrees, that your 14s have a lot more to give with more beefy power; a 250, e.g., although 20 cm out from the walls is barely sufficient i.m.e. I assume they're on substantial stands.
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  #18  
Old 14-10-17, 02:12 AM
molee molee is offline
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[QUOTE=Mike Reed;3223747

I think you'll find, having slowly improved your amplification by degrees, that your 14s have a lot more to give with more beefy power; a 250, e.g., although 20 cm out from the walls is barely sufficient i.m.e. I assume they're on substantial stands.[/QUOTE]

I suspect this is the case too. I have both SBL Mk1s and ES14s. I haven't compared side by side due to pure laziness/inconvenience factor. If you are thinking long term, the SBLs are a better bet even if only due to the availability of spares. I will try and get a comparison done the next time my partner is away.
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  #19  
Old 14-10-17, 02:19 AM
Gaius Gaius is offline
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Worth a try, at one point I had Kans, Saras, 14s, and SBLs in the house; they all do similar things in that flat earth way.

The room is key, less so for 14s.

SBLs are VERY fussy to set up as has been noted above but can be a superb speaker, good fun to take active with a 4 pack, knock it all down and pop in a Nait 2 and MKI Kans!

Good to see Dave above, hope all is well my friend.
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  #20  
Old 14-10-17, 02:27 AM
Stuart Frazer Stuart Frazer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Reed View Post
I think you'll find, having slowly improved your amplification by degrees, that your 14s have a lot more to give with more beefy power; a 250, e.g., although 20 cm out from the walls is barely sufficient i.m.e. I assume they're on substantial stands.
I'm not sure 250/135s is necessarily the route to take here. I would think the mono 110s will give an adequate account on the SBLs. As others have stated, setup is key and going active can really make them sing. An active 110 mono 4 pack could be a very nice system.
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  #21  
Old 14-10-17, 02:28 AM
Tony L Tony L is offline
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One thing that may surprise some is SBLs can sound very good indeed on the end of a tube amp!
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  #22  
Old 14-10-17, 04:29 AM
Mike Reed Mike Reed is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony L View Post
One thing that may surprise some is SBLs can sound very good indeed on the end of a tube amp!
Yup ! You've surprised me, Tony ! If so, it may well temper the coolness in presentation, but I do wonder about that crisp SBL bass.
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  #23  
Old 14-10-17, 04:32 AM
Mike Reed Mike Reed is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuart Frazer View Post
I'm not sure 250/135s is necessarily the route to take here. I would think the mono 110s will give an adequate account on the SBLs. As others have stated, setup is key and going active can really make them sing. An active 110 mono 4 pack could be a very nice system.
Stuart, my comment re. improved amplification was directed at the 14s, not the SBLs. I ran mine with 135s, so no idea of other power sources.
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  #24  
Old 14-10-17, 05:01 AM
fhsa8 fhsa8 is offline
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My SL2s need new tweeters, so I have gone back to Mk1 SBLs that cost me 350 for now. Really impressed with them again.
If the Aluminium pads have multiple puctures, they cost a few pence each from Naim. If your dealer can't find the part number and says you have to get the whole expensive gasket kit, phone Naim directly and they will help.

I did post the part number here a few years ago. Don't know if it will come up on a search. Try Ali pads Naim, but may fall foul of 3 letters
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  #25  
Old 15-10-17, 06:51 AM
oldie oldie is offline
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A tip given to me from a NAIM dealer was if the main seals on SBL was good there was no need to purchase the complete Seal Kit just cut 8 small Alum strips about the same size as the originals from a alum soft drinks/beer Can and flatten them as apparently it's the same thickness.
Regarding your dilemma, you seem to have the perfect room conditions solid floor & stone walls despite what others have implied they are not that difficult to set up ,if the seal has failed ( due to moving) a tube of silicon sealer and washing up liquid is all you will probably need most importantly is that all of the existing silicon seal must be removed before attempting to re assemble. Mine were striped and re assembled several times without any problems .If the price is right, go get 'em you'll never regret it. The only drawback is that once the SBL bug has bitten, the itch will start , it's then going active and eventually you will end up chasing a pair of Briks
oldie
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