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Boiler Question.

Discussion in 'off topic' started by Mullardman, Jun 8, 2017.

  1. stevec67

    stevec67 pfm Member

    That sounds OK. I'd still go through to brick if I could. I use the nylon jobs too but given that someone could pull the rail straight out by tugging on a towel I would be a bit wary of them. I managed to loosen some shelves like this, something got stuck behind, I gave it a tug, out came the nylon fixings. No drama but they are not strong under direct tension.
  2. Mullardman

    Mullardman Moderately extreme...

    I'd need long screws to get through to brick as they'd have to go through the wall, a loo, another wall and a bedroom to get there... :D
  3. twotone

    twotone pfm Member

    Can you not stick a pad in behind the gyproc then fix the TC bracket to that with screws?

    Personally I think you are over thinking this if you were one of my plumbers you'd have been bagged by now, lol.
  4. MikeMA

    MikeMA pfm Member

    Mull, if you have the fixing screws goingg into studwork on one side and decent plasterboard fixings on the other, as you described, you will be fine. I have a similar rad in my bathroom fixed in exactly that way and it's been up for ten years and not budged!
  5. dweezil

    dweezil pfm Member

    Output sounds quite low to me, that's below 1kW in modern money.

    Prob ok if the adjacent rooms are heated or the door kept shut.

    We turn the bathroom rad on a couple of months before the heating in the rest of the house though.
  6. Mullardman

    Mullardman Moderately extreme...

    And you'd be right to sack me.

    One of the things I used to emphasise to would be tradesmen back in my Careers Advising days, was that in order to make money they would have to reach a level of skill AND speed.

    I always over think anything to do with Plumbing because I'm not a Plumber and I don't want any disasters! Speed isn't necessary.. because I'm paying myself. :)

  7. twotone

    twotone pfm Member

    Only kidding mate. Better to do once and right than three times and flood someone out.
  8. steveledzep

    steveledzep pfm Member

    Seems you've had plenty of advice Mull. I agree that you'll be fine and the towel rail will be too :) It's helpful that you're screwing into a stud on one side.
  9. Mullardman

    Mullardman Moderately extreme...

    Yep I think I've finally got it all clear in my head now... ;)

    Many thanks to all.

  10. Mullardman

    Mullardman Moderately extreme...

    Progress report:

    After a lot of f*****g about filling and sanding walls and giving them two 'primer coats', ( not to mention a lot of other distractions ) today I finally put the rail on the wall using hollow wall fixings. Seems very secure. So tomorrow I'll take it off again....

    ... while I apply the final paint finish and get everything ready for plumbing it in.

    Only weeks away from completion now.. ;)

  11. Mullardman

    Mullardman Moderately extreme...

    So anyway.. When I put the damned thing back up one of the hollow wall fixings decided to go a bit 'off'. Investigation proved it was my fault. It had collided with a 'noggin' which was ok first time, but when I tried to re-fit it it wen't a bit wrong.

    So I decided to place both lower fixings lower in the wall and all was going well until.. another sodding noggin.. but this time lying at a 45 degree angle in the wall and completely missed by my stud detector.. ( or my use of it..) but you really don't expect 45 degree noggins...

    So, took out sections both sides of wall and fixed some timber in the take a normal wood screw. Then after more patching, filling and sanding and paintng and sanding and painting.. Got the sodding rail into place.

    Plumbed it in last Monday and after a bit of a pantomime with oval shaped previously bent 8mm copper, finally got from 8-15 mm and from copper to nice chrome emerging from floor to rail. All solder and end fed. None of 'yer poncy plastic, push fit or solder ring cheats here... :)

    Re-filled and added inhibitor. A quick fire up to check and all rads warming up nicely.
    Also whilst drained down I sorted a nasty leak on the c/h flow. Was just a loose coupling but covered in scale and crud, so I cleaned it all up and put a new washer in.

    So all seems well except....

    After barely 5 days the system appears to have lost about 1/4 bar pressure. The c/h has not been used ..only the hot water. There are no visible leaks anywhere and no evidence that I can see of anything emerging from the pressure relief valve outflow.

    There was a small amount of water dripping from down the outside of the condensate drain where it emerges from the boiler casing just after re-filling. I surmised it was originating from the auto air vent on top of the piump close by and it has since stopped.

    So... is a 1/4 bar variation 'normal'?. Is it just reflecting changes in ambient temp in house as we come dowm from the high temperatures a few days back? Or is it some sort of 'settling down' ?

    Also. Why does the indicated pressure on the gauge rise by 1/8th to 1/4 bar when the boiler is supplying hot water but the c/h is not running?

  12. Darth Vader

    Darth Vader From the Dark Side

    I don't know anything about your system but

    "Why does the indicated pressure on the gauge rise by 1/8th to 1/4 bar when the boiler is supplying hot water but the c/h is not running"

    You have a sealed gas/liquid system. The pressure of such a system is proportional to the absolute temperature. Whilst most of the c/h water is at room temp there is some including the pressure gauge close to the tank. So if this bit warms up the pressure will rise and vice versa. Gay-Lussac's Law.


  13. Ellenor

    Ellenor pfm Member

    Pump pressure acting on the pressure gauge. You should only be interested in what the pressure is when the heating system is cold and hot. 1.2 bar cold and maybe around 2 bar hot (depends on system volume).
  14. Mullardman

    Mullardman Moderately extreme...

    Thanks for that. Instructions on control cover say. 'Normal operating pressure 1-2.5.Bar' I usually fill it to 2 if it needs it. It has certainly needed it much less in the last few days.. :)

  15. Ellenor

    Ellenor pfm Member

    No need to put any more than 1.2 in. If you start with 2bar the pressure will rise to near 3 bar when the heating is up to temperature which is where the pressure relief valve opens up. You don't want that happening as they often don't close properly as they age. The boiler will happily run on 0.5bar
  16. twotone

    twotone pfm Member

    Your just losing air/volume from the system via the AAV (which is why there was some water there) this is normal top up the system and it should be fine.

    Air in system equals pressure loss on the gauge ie remove the air from a rad and replace the space with more water but remember water is h20 and contains oxygen which will eventually dissipate with heat and will therefore appear as a pressure loss on the gauge
  17. Mullardman

    Mullardman Moderately extreme...

    Thanks all.

    Next up. swapping out a 40 year old WC pan...

    Looks straightforward enough.... :D
  18. steveledzep

    steveledzep pfm Member

    Haha...you'll be starting a new thread about toilets soon :D
  19. Mullardman

    Mullardman Moderately extreme...

    Bog off!!
  20. twotone

    twotone pfm Member

    It's recent toilets that are a nightmare these days, I'm going to a back to the wall one that's only ten years old and leaking from the seal between the cistern and the pan and I've already warned the guy that he might be better off buying a new WC set cause by the time I spend trying to remove, repair and refit it would be quicker and more cost effective to fit a new set.

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