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First attempt at Surface mount soldering

Discussion in 'd.i.y.' started by glenn jarrett, Feb 4, 2019.

  1. Tony L

    Tony L Administrator

    I’ve always hated lead-free solder, and even worse the audiophool silver crap as neither seems to flow properly. I’ve had a big 1mm reel of 60/40 flux stuff for well over 20 years now, which will soon run out, so only last week I bought a 0.5kg reel of 0.7mm UK made, i.e. new old stock 60/40 (I’m sorry, but I just don’t trust the Chinese stuff to be what it says it is!). That should easily see me out given the amount of soldering I actually do. I have also recently discovered the wonders of a flux pen, it makes life so much easier (especially desoldering with braid).
  2. RyanSoundLab

    RyanSoundLab Trade: Ryan Sound Lab

    If you can apply solder paste carefully (or better yet use a stencil) the frying pan method works extremely well. I've made well over 1,000 circuit boards this way and have had very few poor solder joints (which show up in testing anyway and are easily fixed).

    A hot air rework station is also a good approach if you don't turn the air setting up too high and blow the parts off the board! Hot air is the only way to do the 2nd side of two-sided board without gluing the first side, too.

    I've tried two different toaster oven conversions and didn't like either one. One problem is that they are generally underpowered (e.g. less than 1200 watts is typical over here) so it takes a long time to heat up - longer than the soldering spec for parts says is best. Another problem is it heats up both the top and bottom of the boards which ends up toasting the components on the top a bit. I've had many SMD tantalum caps come out of the toaster oven darker brown than they went in (just like toast!), so I went back to the frying pan method.

    There's a great little tutorial here comparing a lot of SMD methods:

    glenn jarrett and davidsrsb like this.
  3. a.palfreyman

    a.palfreyman pfm Member

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