1. Things you need to know about the new ‘Conversations’ PM system:

    a) DO NOT REPLY TO THE NOTIFICATION EMAIL! I get them, not the intended recipient. I get a lot of them and I do not want them! It is just a notification, log into the site and reply from there.

    b) To delete old conversations use the ‘Leave conversation’ option. This is just delete by another name.
    Dismiss Notice

My new bicycle

Discussion in 'off topic' started by Tony L, Dec 29, 2013.

  1. Tony L

    Tony L Administrator

    Got the top bit:


    Just need to think about the bottom bit now....

    It's going to be a tourer, i.e. not a replacement for my trusty old Kona MTB, which I intend to keep and use for canal paths, cycling into Manchester etc. My aim for the tourer is to double my on-road range and obtain a much faster more comfortable ride in that context. I bought the saddle first as I knew exactly what I wanted there - I've ridden a Brooks B17 since the early 80s, the one on the Kona is almost 30 years old! I can start treating / breaking the new one in so it's nice and ready for the new bike. The plan is two months research with a view to buying around late Feb so I'm all set for some serious cycling this summer. All ideas / recommendations welcome. Budget circa £2-2.5k absolute tops and more than happy to pay less. I rather fancy a titanium frame...
  2. auric

    auric pfm Member

    Just ensure that you record everything with your new camera.
  3. markt

    markt hello

  4. clifftaylor

    clifftaylor Absolutely retired!


    As it is, I ride a Cannondale CAAD8. If I had the money, I'd certainly look at a custom frame from this lot.
  5. Mick P

    Mick P Retired and content


    Spend 5 minutes reading this

    I think the Clubman Country is certainly your cup of tea.


  6. merlin

    merlin Avatar changed - Town names deemed offensive.

    I ride Titanium most of the time. Have done for twenty years. My Ti frames are the same now as they were ten years ago and will still be going strong when I am boxed up ready for the afterlife.

    I would invest in Titanium and buy something special from one of the custom builders like Seven, Eriksson or Firefly. The truth is my Seven road bike is worth more now than what I paid for it in 2003.

    If something more traditional is on the menu and you fancy keeping it as British as possible, look to Derby and Mercian.

  7. skito

    skito pfm Member

    Hi Tony,

    My first tour i used a Brooks B-17 and on that aspect was incredibly comfortable almost from new - I cycled down to Nice across into Italy then quite promptly cut back across the med to Spain and flew home. I actually cut short my plan to continue to Portugal due to numb hands caused by too much weight on them - I'd say poor frame fit as no end of adjustment could sort it once I was on the road - took me a couple of months to get the full feeling back and at it's worst was struggling to button a shirt! Doing it again I would spend time getting a really good frame fit or perhaps even custom built. A slight mis-match might not initially be that obvious but day-in-day-out spent in the saddle and it soon can. Be interested to see which bike you go for.

  8. pqpq

    pqpq pfm Member

    With titanium you very much get what you pay for. I have 3 titanium frames:

    A Merlin road frame. This is fabulous but was immensely expensive and would be way over your budget. Hand made in the US and it rides like nothing else.

    An Airborne Ti cross frame. It's a nice frame and it rides well, but doesn't have anywhere near as much of the Ti feel as the Merlin. It's also nowhere near as well made. Oh and it snapped due to a somewhat dodgy design.

    An On-One Tinbred. As above.

    Don't fall for the myth that Titanium is for life. Ti frames can snap the same as any other material can, but they are close to impossible to get repaired in the UK. It's a great material for framebuilding in the right hands, but beware the hype and badly made cheapies.

    In your shoes I wouldn't touch a traditional tourer. They're lumbering beasts which really only make sense if you'll be carrying a lot of gear. Go for something sportier - one of the Cyclocross style bikes which are very popular at the moment. You can carry enough stuff for a non-camping tour, but they're lively and fun to ride.

    Once your bike is suitable for the riding you want to do, fit is the next most important thing. Don't obsess over the detail of the spec (all modern gear works well) - go to a decent bike shop and get the bike fitted properly (preferably with a decent computer fitting system). A good shop will be able to tell you which brand is likely to suit you, or you could go custom.
  9. molee

    molee pfm Member

    A serious question (though it will seem facetious) that hopefully can be answered without pulling the thread off at a tangent. Will that sort of Brookes saddle prevent numb testicles because that is what mine gives me after serious mileage (for me that would be about 5 miles)?
  10. pqpq

    pqpq pfm Member

    Maybe, maybe not. There's no such thing as a good saddle, just a saddle that's good for you. I had a Brooks B17 years ago and it was the most uncomfortable thing I've ever sat on. Many others love them.

    It sounds like you need a saddle with a "Love groove" which relieves pressure on your sensitive bits. I get on very well with Specialized in that department because they seem to be one of the few saddle manufacturers who apply a bit of science to the problem.
  11. Seeker_UK

    Seeker_UK Waiting for the streetcar..

    I want a bike that's for the road and is a comfortable ride.

    The model that has been recommended to me by my cycling nut colleague (he has bikes for every occasion) was a Trek Hybrid such as


    Rapid, comfortable and relatively affordable.


    OK, so probably not as 'specialist' as some bikes recommended but their after sales support is second to none.

    The other piece of advice is to go to a reputable bike dealer and they will measure you for the right frame and to answer Molee's question, will measure your 'bum' (well OK, the bottom bony bit of your pelvis) and advise on the best seat to fit.
  12. mikemusic

    mikemusic pfm Member

    Something is wrong
    Assume you have padded shorts ...
    Right frame size ?
    Is the height right ?
    Level ?
    Right front to back position ?
    Thought about a bike fitting ?
    I might go for one as I heard first hand about the amount of work that goes in and the visits after to fine tune.
    Think it was around £60 or 90 and some hours spent in total
    You can also go for a saddle fitting in some bike shops
  13. molee

    molee pfm Member

    Thanks. Right, I'll go to a decent bike shop (no shortage on Oxford) to work this one out. Back on topic now.
  14. chainrule

    chainrule gordon

    if you're not going to tour, i wouldn't get a touring bike.
    if you're not going to ride dirt, i wouldn't get a cross bike.
    if you're not going to race, i wouldn't get a race bike.

    most bike companies make a road bike light enough to do centuries/double-centuries, but with a more relaxed enough geometry than a race road bike for added comfort. ti and carbon probably aren't doable at your budget.

    if you want to do some "fun" research, read "it's all about the bike" by robert penn.
  15. sean99

    sean99 pfm Member

  16. dan m

    dan m pfm Member

    Before going down the retro route, you owe it to yourself to demo a current day road bike. One with drop bars, brake levers with shifters incorporated. You will not believe how agile and fun they are to ride. How easy the shifting is, and how it's possible to maintain a nice steady cadence because of it. If you're worried about potholes etc. then you can trade the standard 23mm tires for something a little fatter. Modern rims are, however, surprisingly durable. After some adjustment to the new position, you'll appreciate the added speed that comes with a more aero profile. Otherwise, I fear the difference between your new bike and a converted mtb with skinny tires just isn't going to be night and day. You may in the end not go for a full on race machine, preferring something with mudguard clearance, braze ons for a rack, etc. but take out a sports car equivalent to get a feel for current tech - you may just get hooked and it's cheaper than a Porsche. Have fun!
  17. Paul R

    Paul R pfm Member

    For what Tony says he wants to do then a 'sportive' geometry road bike would seem to fit the bill. But an off-the-shelf job from a major manufacturer won't provide the joy of purchase or simple ownership. It might be worth just buying something of last years model in the sales and seeing how his riding develops over the next year, then approach something more of a keeper with more personal experience.

    (From an engineering pov I think carbon fibre is the ideal bike construction material, but it's plastic not romantic.)

    Something definitely worth doing is to find a bike fitter with a good eye and get some advice about position. I'd recommend a chap but he's based in Peterborough.

  18. dan m

    dan m pfm Member

    +1 on a good fitter and carbon if in budget. 'Sportive' isn't a word used over here, but a google indicates it sounds like a good option - a relaxed-geometry race bike rather than a tourer.
  19. NeilR

    NeilR pfm Member

    I would agree with the suggestions above, a carbon road bike with a sportive type geometry, something like a Cannondale Synapse or a Trek Domane would be a good option, iMO.
  20. NeilR

    NeilR pfm Member

    Get a proper road bike. A hybrid is a poor compromise, IMO.

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice